• What function will this dog perform?  
• What is your hierarchy of 'functions'? Of all the possibilities, what is most important, and how does the list go - hunting, companion, family dog, guard dog, assisting dog? Put your desires in order of priority. This will be more important than you know.  
• Will there be the prime caretaker of the dog? Is the whole family that 'person'?  
• Where is the dog expected to live, sleep and eat?  
• How will the dog travel, and how often?  
• How much time is the prime caretaker, hereon referred to as handler, willing to commit to the training and care of this dog?  
• Do you have a competent veterinarian for the dog, and are you willing to take all the health care necessary for the lifetime of this dog?  
• Do you have a clear picture of how you want this dog to behave, now and one year from now?  
• Do you have a clear picture of how you are going to see to it that the dog is taught to behave now, and one year from now?  
• Do you know why you are getting a dog? 

The issue here is to determine why you want a dog, and what you expect to give to get that from the dog. It is also to decide how much of you, or whoever the handler will be, is going to be committed to work with the dog. This is important in choosing the dog or breed you may want. We will go into this next. 

It is important to understand where the dog came from, because that is what made dogs what they are today. Dogs were domesticated from particular kinds of wild dogs. Those were dogs that leant themselves to working with humans, and not hunting and eating them! All domesticated dogs initially had to work for survival, and did so until the last few hundred years. These original dogs were neither large nor small, but medium sized. Large dogs could not move fast enough to escape predators, and small dogs could not defend themselves, so thin, athletic, medium sized dogs were the survivors. 

When you see very large breeds or very small breeds, understand these are in no way a naturally occurring breed of dog. Of course, there are no more natural occurring dogs, all have been bred to fit one function or another, but some have not strayed far from their original design. The ones who vary significantly from their origins, have suffered this because of human intervention. Dogs would not naturally make themselves huge lumbering beasts; it is not in their best interests. Nor would they shrink themselves through natural selection to something so tiny you could carry it under the seat of an airplane. 

It is humans who, through desire for novelty or who knows what, have created the toy breeds, and that huge breeds now exist. There are good and healthy dogs that are in these extreme breeds, but there are many that are not. There is only one way to vary from any animal's optimal genetics, and that is through in-breeding. In-breeding is how the very small breeds were created. In-breeding is how unusual colors are created in dogs. Of course, you will never meet any one who has done this in-breeding, but you are surrounded by them. Many may be so uninformed as to not know they are doing that. 

In-breeding is also how genetic defects that may go unmanifested or unrecognized are brought out. Displaysia, a hip defect in so many breeds today, is rampant because of the inbreeding occurring in popular breeds. There are immune deficiency problems in breeds that have been popular for some time, and those are premature and often unpleasant endings for the dogs. The list of genetic defects in popular breeds could go on and on. The point is to be wary of any breed that is either extremely popular, or varies significantly from the original dog structure. There are ways to minimize the chances of getting a pup with some of these problems, and that will be discussed in later sections. 

One area of hunters may have wanted dogs to locate birds in a field, but not go after them: the pointers and setters resulted. Others wanted dogs that would find the birds and scare them, even bringing them back if they caught them. Retrievers came about. Remember that hunting used to be so people could eat, and not just as a weekend sport. If people lived in the icy climes of northern Europe or Canada, they wanted a tough dog that would swim cold ocean waters all day long. Labradors and Chesapeakes came from these people. 

One of the things that people overlook most often when acquiring a new dog, are the origins of that dog. Remember the old saying, "You are what you come from"? That is true of dogs. If a dog comes from a line of dogs bred to guard and attack if feeling threatened, then expect that dog may tend to attack if they truly feel threatened, no matter how friendly they are to their owners. If a dog comes from a line of dogs bred to dig in the ground and hunt for rodents, then expect that dog to dig in your yard, and hunt for something. If you buy a hunting dog who comes from ancestors who ran for miles and miles a day during a hunt, then do not expect that dog to sit idly in the back yard every day, watching the children play. They will most likely scale the fence, and head out, not even knowing why, but driven by their very breeding to range and roam. 

Understand the Labrador breed. Learn what they were designed to do, and expect that is what they will want to do, in one form or another. Too many people own Dobermans and Rottweillers, because they are trendy and powerful looking. Tell how trendy they are to all the children in this country who have been mauled by the 'friendly' Rottie next door. Too many people buy the beautiful sporting breeds that were developed to hunt all day, run long and fast and go far from their handlers. They buy them because they are athletic and beautiful, intelligent and sensitive. Then they stick them in the back yard and give them nothing to do. These dogs will create something to do, and it probably will not be to tend to the flower beds. Then the owners think their dog is a 'problem dog', when it is the very owners who are the 'problem'. 

Pick a dog to which you can be fair, given the constraints of your daily life. If you do not have much time to spend with your dog, do not get a dog highly driven to perform and work. If you want a dog that can hike and run and do many athletic things with you, do not get a 120 pound dog that will break down with wear and tear. If you want to hunt a few times a year, do not get a dog who wants to run 20 miles a day, every day, hunting. If you do get a performance dog, do not expect them to act like a toy poodle in your back yard. They are high energy dogs, who will take advantage of every situation to do something. Have a kennel so they can be confined and undestructive. Have something for them to do, and almost every day! If you have small children who cannot be accountable for their actions, do not get a dog that has even the smallest chance of turning on them. 

One final thought; consider the place you live and the conditions in which you plan to keep your dog. If you live in a place in which kennels are not allowed, or general dog activities are frowned upon, is this the best place to have your dog? If you live in an apartment, is an avid hunter designed to spend 23 hours a day inside a small room? Make sure your living conditions provide the type of environment in which your dog may remain healthy, challenged and robust. 

B. How to Look for Your Retriever

The retrievers are as their name implies, dogs that retrieve things. They were developed primarily for retrieving birds that were shot on land and in water. There are differences between the 4 standard breeds: Labradors, Goldens, Chesapeakes and Flatcoats. Depending upon whom you talk to, each breed is the best. Flatcoats look like black Golden Retrievers, and are more European in popularity. Chesapeakes are rugged, strong and occasionally stubborn, though there are always many exceptions. Their coats have a coating that protects the dogs in the coldest and wettest of conditions. The Golden Retrievers usually have long, thick coats, beautiful to see, and a challenge for burr removal after field work. Golden Retrievers are also present in the top ten breeds for biting children. This may come as a suprise to most people, but Goldens, who are gentle and affectionate, can be more aggressive when put under severely stressful conditions. 

The Labrador currently is the most popular pure-bred in America. This is not in the best interests of the breed, and it is unfortunate, but anyone owning a Lab can attest to the reasons for their popularity. Labradors tend to be very intelligent, as are the other retriever breeds. They are in general, less hard-headed, though there are countless exceptions to this generality! They love to work, as do the other breeds, but with their short, clean hair, they are often easier to keep clean and weed-free. 

All the retriever breeds retrieve willingly, they also flush birds in the field and retrieve in the water equally well. Some strains of Labradors have been found to point, and so these dogs serve many functions. Retrievers tend to be bulkier than the pointers and setters, and so tend to run less distances and at slower speeds. They are good hunters close in, and dogs who are bred to be athletic and not too large, can hunt many hours a day with giving out. The aspect that often sets the retrievers apart, is their ability to work hard all day, and roll and play with kids (or adults!) all evening in the house. They are versatile, intelligent, and dogs bred to perform a function of some kind. 

C. Picking the Right Puppy

This is the fun part for all of us. There as many "tricks" to picking the right puppy, as there are people who want to tell you about them. We have heard many interesting ways to pick up a puppy. One renowned dog trainer answered that question with, "There is no way to pick the right puppy, I just reach in and take one." Another woman said she always picked the pup that was first to the food dish. One person told us they were told to pick the pup who stuck closest to their legs. Interesting, isn't it? 

It is true that there is no sure-fire way to know you are getting the dog you want. There is no positive way to know you are getting the best pup in the litter. Living things are random and unpredictable, and we cannot 'know for sure' anything about them. Just like any of us who are married realize that, it is true with dogs. Living creatures change, and cannot be fully understood. Even so, years of experience looking at puppies, seeing how they develop and how they might change, has given us some tools developed purely through empirical data, or by just seeing a whole bunch of pups for a long time! Let's talk a little bit more about looking at pups. 

1. What Characteristics Do You Look For?

Regardless of what you are getting your puppy for, there are probably several things we all want in our dogs. One of the top has to be intelligence. A smart dog is an easily trainable dog. Of course, it is also a dog who can easily outwit us, but that is another issue entirely. Intelligent dogs understand their role, can learn what it is you want them to learn, and do not do things for absolutely no reason, though it may be hard to understand the why sometimes. 

Another important aspect to a dog is sensitivity. Most of us are happier with a dog we can work with, without having to prove we are serious every time. A dog that awakens when you enter a room, and is aware of your presence, may be more desirable than one you have to wake up so you can take him or her outside. A dog that is sensitive is easier to train to be basically obedient. These dogs you teach, and because they wish to avoid your corrections, they obey willingly. More insensitive animals do not care enough about your level of happiness, and these dogs often take more force to make obedient, because they will pay attention to little else. Sensitivity does not equate to weakness, timidness, or any other negative quality. It is a positive quality through which your dog is more aware of what is around him or her, and more willing to play a part in it. 

A certain level of courage is important. It is easy to mistake courage for stupidity. Courage means the dog is willing to brave something of which he is not sure, for the pleasure of the adventure or experience. This implies the dog understands there is an unknown out there, and understands there may be a risk associated with it. That is courage with intelligence. A dog with little intelligence may appear courageous, when in fact the dog is just too ignorant to realize there is a risk. A dog with courage will be one who is not afraid to get in a different vehicle, go somewhere new, not afraid of new people or environments, new dogs or new experiences. A dog without much courage may whine and hide, or even bite if intimidated enough. A courageous dog is easier to own than one who is not. 

Assuming you are looking for a dog for a lifetime, then athleticism and robustness are important. This does not mean to pick the biggest, smallest, skinniest, fattest or any other geometric outlyer. Usually, the extremes are not desirable compared to the more normal. As opposed to picking a dog based upon their size at 7 weeks, pick a dog on the basis of how easily they move, how good their endurance is, and how enthusiastic they are going about their jobs as puppies. Dogs who are very large tend to have more physical problems when physically challenged, and as they age and arthritis sets in. An athletic dog will have an easier time of it throughout their lives. If you plan on hunting with them, if they are in condition, they will hunt longer and more effectively for you because they are not limited by poor structure or movement. This will be true for any use you may have for them. 

Robustness does not equate to being wild and crazy. Wild and crazy is just that, and not terribly desirable for any purpose. Robustness is the twinkle in the eye when the pup looks at you. It is the enthusiasm for walking with you, chasing a puppy dummy and playing with siblings. It is the spirit for life that will be a pleasure for you always. 

For those interested in finding the best hunting dog, that is sometimes very difficult to pinpoint at an early age. All of the aforementioned characteristics are important for the bird dog. The desire to retrieve may or may not be present at the age of 6-8 weeks. If it is not, that does not mean it will not appear soon. If it is there, then at least you know the dog loves to retrieve when it is fun. Many breeders will put out a bird to see what the dogs do, and certainly they must have good reasons. There are probably many breeds of puppies that would gladly chase a live bird around, so it is not clear how effective this tool is at making a good judgment. In our opinion, a better judgment of the dog's birdiness is their pedigree. Still, if the pup shows an interest in feathers, that has to be a good sign. Certainly the desire to retrieve at an early age is a very positive sign, and the chances are the pups in the litter who want to retrieve now, will tend to be more enthusiastic later on as well. 

2. How to Test for These Characteristics

Puppy Testing Guidelines

Pups should not be tested until they are at least six weeks of age. Ideally, you should look at your pups at six, then seven, and finally at eight weeks before making your choice. There is a very good reason for this. Say you went to your breeders on a Saturday afternoon. It was hot; the pups had been playing all morning, except for timid little one. Now you go out, armed with your puppy test criteria, and begin to look at the pups. They all look pretty droopy except for this one bouncy little female. She seems more alert, energetic, and just more 'with it' than any of the other pups. If that is your only time to look at the pups, you will come away with a very biased view, and probably not an accurate one. The one who appears to be the best one, is in fact the only one not tired from an all morning romp! 

Puppies develop at different rates. If the standout pup one week is still the standout pup the next week, then you may be on to something. If the emphasis shifts, weight what you see with the dogs at a greater age more heavily. The pups can change over time, and with changing conditions. Try and pick a time of day when the pups will not be hot, tired or full of dinner. Do not let the fact one pup had a belly full of food bias your opinion. Make every effort to watch enough of the pups to make sure you get the real picture. 

Separate the males and the females. Females develop earlier than males, and usually test better. This does not mean they are better, but they appear to be ahead of the game at this stage, and so you may think you are getting the better dog. If you already know what you want, then look only at that sex. If you are not sure, look at both, but look at them in comparison to one another, males with males, and females with females. Keep in mind, in general, the female pups will develop more rapidly, and look better at this stage. There are always exceptions, but do not allow this phenomenon to cloud your opinion of what you are seeing. 

Puppy testing depends a lot upon the awareness of the individual looking. Two people can look at the same litter of puppies and interpret what they saw quite differently. As hard as it may be, it might be better sometimes, to pretend you are looking for a pup for your boss, or your father-in-law. That way you can set aside your emotional attachments to old Shep, the dog you had as a child, who was so great until he ran away. Or more likely, if we were the kids in school who never got picked for the baseball team, we will make up for that by picking the puppy that would never make the 'baseball team'. Choices made on emotional baggage from the past are not always in the best interests of the arrangement you would like to have between your dog and you or your family for the next twelve to fourteen years. 

Finally, make sure the pups you are evaluating are clearly and uniquely marked. Traditionally, colored collars are put on the pups around 5-6 weeks, clearly identifying who is who. Any good breeder will do this so that you can make informed choices. If your breeder has not, ask if you can mark the one or two you favor. The pups will have grown so much in one week; you will be hard put to tell which one is which the next time you go to test them. 

Puppy "Tests"

This exercise is not so severe and contrived as it may have sounded up to this point. With the criteria already discussed in mind, you do several things with the pups in which you are interested. The key is to remember what you see, and think about it later. First, try to evaluate your pups without a crowd around you. A bunch of people around will distract the dogs, and distract you. With three different people all going "Ahhh, look how cute the little pink, green, red collar pup is&&." 

• Watch the puppies, and their interactions with each other and the world around them. Who hides behind his or her littermates when you come in? Who notices your presence first? Who is curious? Who is asleep all the time? Who appears to be the most mobile, the most spirited? Who takes off all by themselves? Who ignores you? 
  
   
• Take the puppies if you can, to an outside location. It is most preferable if you can take them somewhere unfamiliar to them. A field or place they do not normally romp and play in is very important. It is under these circumstances that you can tell something about courage, curiosity, athleticism and spirit. In the confines of a very familiar backyard, the outgoing pup may have so thoroughly explored his world that he no longer needs to and you can misread his disinterest. 
  
  Take off walking with the pups in tow. Some will follow, some will hang back. The ones who hang back may be fearful, or may just be tired. Just keep track of who goes and who does not. If a pattern develops each time you test them, and little blue collar never comes out with you, you might believe little blue collar is somewhat timid, or does not feel well. Similarly, if a pattern develops, and three of the pups always come out with you, you might believe those three are rather robust. Continue walking, calling the pups to go with you. Watch who has the physical ability and desire to keep up with you. Watch who tires or becomes bored with the activity. So many times we have seen the desire to keep up, the physical ability to keep up, and the lack of boredom translate to a dog with a high level of interest in working and training. 
  
   
• Here is a place you can gage something about courage. Find something like a steep incline, a stream, some difficult terrain, a sticker patch, anything that is quite challenging to a 6 week old puppy. Watch the puppies' reactions when confronted with this 'challenge'. Let's say you encounter a precipice that cannot hurt the pups if they tumble off, but is a little frightening. Of course, never put the puppies at any real risk, just a perceived risk. You head down the precipice and on, encouraging the pups to go with you. Watch closely. Is there a puppy that just headlongs right over the side and never gives it a second thought? Is there a puppy that encounters the edge, stops, looks at it, decides it is a risk worth taking and proceeds? Is there a pup that sees the edge, stops, and will not consider proceeding? How do you read these reactions? 
  
  It is customary to think the pup that just jumped down the edge without thought was the 'brave' one, but is this true? More likely he was not smart enough to take time to consider the risk. Often, lack of using the brain is construed as courage, when it is not. The pup that would not consider taking any risk, if consistent in that reaction, is most likely not a very courageous dog. The pup who took notice of the risk, and then opted to take the risk, is likely a courageous, thinking dog, particularly if that pup tends to repeat that kind of behavior when presented with other 'risks'. Courage without thought usually winds up as a frequently injured dog, or a dog may be a little harder to work with. 
  
   
• On your 'outing' with the pups, take your time. Plan on more than a couple of minutes. If possible, walk with them for 10 minutes or so. This will definitely tire out a 6 or 7 week old pup, but this will give you more insight into the little ones. Go over the hard stuff, across the water or stickers, up a steep hill, down a steep hill. As time goes by (within reason, of course) keep an eye on who sticks with you, who has an efficiency of movement and innate strength. These dogs will tire less readily, and are more athletic, physically and in spirit. Often, a pup you may not have paid much attention to earlier will show up at this point. This will show not only athleticism and physical ability, but may indicate courage, tenacity, and spirit. A dog that through a series of tests consistently shows the ability to withstand difficult rigors, is a dog you may want as your hunting companion. 
  
   
• Perhaps since we are trainers, the sensitivity of a dog is very important to us. It is easier to train, work with, and live with a dog who is more tuned in to those around him or her. A dog that can pick up clues and signals more quickly takes less discipline, and less time to grasp certain concepts. A dog that is more 'aware' probably finds birds with less effort as well. Watch for a pattern of behavior in the pups that shows a continual and heightened level of awareness. Who is the first dog to notice your presence? Who is the first dog who awakens after a noise? Who is the first dog to notice you changed directions, or that you called? Who is the first dog to run after the bird wing you tossed? Who watched you the most intently? There are many ways to assess sensitivity, mostly, keep your eyes open. 
  
   
• Intelligence is important in a dog, no matter what you plan to do with them. Although many times we have seen dogs that constantly outwit their owners, intelligence should be desired, and channeled appropriately in a dog. The signs of intelligence go hand-in-hand with the aspects already described in the early sections. An intelligent dog is one who thinks before taking a risk, a dog that watches you closely, looking you in the face. An intelligent dog sees what goes around him or her, watches birds in the sky, notices action on a television screen, looks toward a strange noise, has a high level of curiosity about everything. An intelligent pup senses when to pick a fight, or when best to leave it to the others. Look for the pup that looks for you. 
  
   
• Spirit in a dog, is one of the things that make them most memorable over your lifetime. We all remember the one dog we had who went with us everywhere, protected us, explored with us, or who was the most prolific and joyful hunting companion. Though it is hard to qualify in a pup, it can very often be sensed on the part of those to whom it is important. In this way, dogs are very like humans. Some exist in a lump-like state, and are quite satisfied in doing so. Others have the ability to experience pleasure in the smallest things, making them all the larger. A spirited dog anticipates any activity with you. They have the ability to relish work. They appreciate challenges. Life for that type of dog is something they do, not what describes their existence. It is something to think about as you watch your prospective litter. 

D. Summarizing the "Choice" Process

There is often a great deal of emotion associated in picking a puppy. Too many times we have seen someone let their daughter pick their puppy, so she would feel a part of the process, or they pick the one that looked just like their old dog did. This is a kindness to the people involved, but it may not be the best thing for you or your puppy! If space allowed, dozens of stories could be told here, regarding the results of poor puppy choices. One avid hunter we know was a very large man. For him, large was good. When he picked a puppy, he always chose the biggest one in the litter. That would work well if they were eggs in a carton, all basically the same thing. Since puppies are like children, and for those of you who have had children or siblings, you know what a huge differences can exist between identically bred humans! What this large hunter wound up with was a dog who ate twice as much food as the regular dog, constantly tore tendons and ligaments because he was so large, and was not much of a hunter. Perhaps, if he had chosen the pup that exhibited the characteristics that would eventually yield an ardent and capable hunter, his sizable investment might have netted him more. 

As mentioned before, there is no such thing as a 'sure thing'. The dog that tests out the best may not be the best dog. However, if you had to pick ten dogs from ten different litters, going through a thoughtful and deliberate process will net you the best dog the majority of the time, we have seen that borne out time and time again in our own kennels. 

We will summarize the key points in picking a pup from a given litter: 

 

1. Separate males from females. Usually, the females look better because they tend to develop earlier. This could bias your opinion.  
2. Test the puppies somewhere other than their own yard. Do not let familiarity with environment bias your judgment. It is best to take them somewhere new.  
3. Test the puppies in a location that will provide physical challenges and perceived risks to the dogs. This allows you to evaluate for courage, intelligence, athleticism, etc.  
4. It is advisable not to pick a pup based on one evaluation. The pups may be tired, not feeling well, or some other thing that masks their real character. Test a number of times so that you may see the pattern of behavior. When you see a consistent behavior in the pups, then you can have some comfort level in the validity of your assessments.  
5. Watch the pups in general, during all the activities, including in their whelping box or kennel. Notice who sees everything first, who is most aware, who is most curious. Watch for the dog that thinks.  
6. Physically challenge the dogs so that you may see who is the athlete, who is tenacious, who is lazy or weak. Look for the one with good movement and stamina.  
7. Look for the dog with an interest in retrieving. A dog that does not have it at 6 weeks may acquire it later on. The dog that does have it at 6 weeks definitely has the desire to retrieve.  
8. Look for the robust dog, the dog that enjoys playing, sleeping, eating, and interacting with littermates and with you.  
9. Look for the pup who believes in himself or herself enough to take some risks, but understands that what they are doing is a little scary. This is courage.  
10. Look for a pup you genuinely like. 

E. Finding the Right Litter of Puppies

This is the single most important section of this entire write-up. Picking the pup you want is not a difficult task; it takes some time and thought. At any given time, there are dozens of litters of puppies around. Depending upon the popularity of the breed in which you have an interest, there may be between one and one thousand litters of puppies across the country, available at any one time. Buying a pup is not terribly different than buying a car. If you just want a car, then you can go to the nearest used car lot, give them some money and drive out with a car. Of course, the car my not drive you all the way home before it breaks down. When buying a dog you want to keep for a lifetime, which will be part of your family and your life's activities, there are some critical factors you cannot ignore. 

 

1. Popular breeds today, particularly the retriever breeds, are fraught with genetic problems. Hip displaysia, eye defects, immune system problems, thyroid problems, etc. are pervasive. It is not possible to be absolutely certain the dog you are buying will never have any of these problems. You can go a long ways to reduce your chances of getting a dog with these defects.  
2. Deal only with a breeder who is aware of these problems, and who breeds dogs that have proof of not possessing these defects. Dogs of 2 years of age and older can be x-rayed for hip displaysia. Younger than 2 years they are not mature enough for a final judgment. The x-rays are sent in to one location where they are evaluated by a team of board certified veterinarians. This team assigns a rating of Excellent, Good, Fair, or Poor, and an "OFA" number goes with it. This number goes into the dog's registration and is permanently assigned. Your breeder should have the OFA certificate and rating on both sire and dam of the litter. A rating of Good or Excellent is the only kind of dog to reproduce. If you have ever seen a displastic dog, it would make you wish to prosecute those who have allowed them to reproduce and pass on the pain and suffering.  
3. Both sire and dam of a litter should possess what is called an 'eye CERF'. This is an annual examination done by a canine ophthalmologist, the results of which are sent to a central location in Ohio. In this examination, the eye is closely examined for cataracts and retinal defects. If the eye is OK, an eye "CERF" is given with a CERF number and certificate assigned. This is the only evidence you will have the dogs you are evaluating are likely not to have eye problems.  
4. Any breeder who truly cares for the animals they are producing, and for the breed as a whole, will go to these lengths to assure the quality of what they are producing. It is strongly our recommendation to purchase only from individuals who have invested the time, money and care in the animals they are breeding. In the end, this type of dog will be the least expensive to own. You are far less likely to be constantly running to the vet because of various problems. Nor will you have to put your beloved pet down at an early age because of problems they are having or pain they are enduring.  
5. Let's talk about bloodlines and pedigrees for a moment. This is a point of conflict between various factions of the dog world. Arguing the validity or purpose of bloodlines and pedigrees is akin to arguing who is better, the Varsity Track Team or the Miss Oopsiedoodle County Beauty contestants. That would depend on what they were going to do, wouldn't it? If you plan on running for Miss America, you better start with the beauty contestants, and skip the track team, in general. If you plan on fielding an Olympic Track team, you might begin with the track runners, and skip the beauty contestants, in general. There will always be exceptions; there may be a beauty contest winner who is the track team captain. This will be an exception, however, and not the rule. 

If you want an athletic, birdy animal, then locate stock that has demonstrated those characteristics as strongly as possible. If you want a mellow housepet, then look for dogs that exhibit those characteristics strongly. In general, field bred dogs are from dogs who love to hunt birds, and can withstand the physical rigors of hunting. In general, show dog stock is bred for specific conformation that may or may not emphasize athleticism and endurance, and for a mellow temperament. So many times we have seen individuals buy a retriever and assume that meant the dog would love to retrieve and hunt. The stock from which that dog came was not the field stock, and was not created to enhance those talents. No matter how much they tried, that dog would never be what they wanted it to be, but it was not the dog's fault. Had they made a more informed choice about where and how to look for a dog, they could have saved their own disappointment, and allowed that dog to go to a home in which it fit better. As stated earlier, you are what you come from, and so is your dog. 

F. Conclusions

You want a puppy. You most likely know the type you wish to buy. Do remember that you cannot deny your dog's genetics; runners run, protective dogs protect, dogs with a purpose need to have a purpose in their life. No matter what breed you pick, or what puppy you take home, if you purchase a dog who is bred to do something, then you will have a much better time of it if your dog gets to do that something. Most of the behavioral problems we encounter between people and their dogs stem from the fact they have never given their dog the purpose and the outlet it needs. Running behind your vehicle in a field is not an outlet. Dogs with a function need to be mentally and physically challenged, just as you do. 

 

• Pick a dog that is right for you, for the 10-15 years you expect to own that dog.  
• Be prepared to provide the health care, and daily care required to responsibly own a dog.  
• If possible, work out ahead of time, who will be the primary 'handler' of this dog; who will feed, exercise, train and work with the dog. When, where, and how often?  
• Plan for future needs. Puppies chew, puppies can be quite destructive. Do you have a place for your pup when it needs to be confined, a place in which it will be safe while you are away? Where will the pup sleep, will it need to be housebroken, how will you do that?  
• Find the right litter of pups. If it takes months, the wait will be worth it. Try never to go look at a litter you do not want to buy from, there are no unattractive puppies!  
• Find a litter from breeders who will guarantee the health of the sire and dam, and guarantee to replace your pup if there is a genetic problem. That is standard in the reputable section of this industry.  
• Buy only dogs with sire and dams with OFA hip ratings of Good or better, and eye CERF's. There are no justifications for not having those. If the dogs do not, move on.  
• Once you have found a breeding and a breeder you really like, plan on taking some time to pick the individual you will own for a lifetime. Pups can change between 5,6,7 and 8 weeks. If at possible, plan on doing 2 or 3 evaluations over 2 or 3 weeks period of time. This is not always possible, but if it is, you will not regret it.  
• Make sure the pups are marked so you can tell who is who.  
• Watch the dogs in an environment in which they are comfortable. Test the dogs in an environment that is new to them, or as unfamiliar as possible.  
• For the outside tests, find a place if you can that has obstacles, challenges, weeds, stickers, water, hills, etc. Use these to gage the pups and their reactions to the world.  
• Look for a dog that is sensitive, aware of his surroundings and what is going on.  
• Look for a dog who is intelligent, who appears to think about things.  
• Look for a dog with some courage. Remember that courage can be confused with stupidity. Courage is assessing a risk, and then taking it if it is not truly unsafe.  
• Look for a well-built, proportional, athletic animal that moves easily.  
• Look for a dog with spirit in his or her heart, and a spirit in their eye, in their movement, in their way of living.  
• Look for a robust animal. These are usually healthier, and more fun to be around.  
• Look for an animal that you like, not one that reminds you of something else, but an individual who on his or her own merits is appealing to you.  
• Enjoy this process. It is a fun, and should be approached as such. You are not assessing lawn mowers or robots, but little living things. Open your eye, your heart and your mind, and usually the choice becomes quite obvious to you. 

Choosing the right pup is not purely a game of chance. Nor is it a sure thing. By using common sense, your intuition, and making your choices from the kind of animals you would want to own yourself, you can increase your odds of getting your 'perfect dog'. Be patient, set your emotions aside. Take the time to watch, and you will begin to see the pups tell you their story. You can often easily see the one you want after a while. 

Once you have your pup, plan on making your investment truly pay off. Plan how you are going to 'raise' this pup. Do not let it run wild for 6 months, and then decide to work with it. Make every day count, and develop a rewarding relationship of respect between the dog and you and your family. Give your dog a purpose, one that includes physical and mental challenges. Enjoy your dog, have fun with the ownership. 

Paul & Julie Knutson
www.gunclub-labs.com